A Taste of Korea’s “Driver’s Restaurants” in the Lower East Side New York
At 205 Allen Street in New York’s Lower East Side, a nostalgic, retro-style Korean restaurant—gisa sikdang—has opened. When I first heard the news, I couldn’t believe it. A gisa sikdang in New York? Even in Korea, these driver’s restaurants are becoming rare, so to see one open in the heart of the world, New York City, is honestly surprising. It’s fascinating how dining experiences like this can transport you through time and culture.
This restaurant is run by three partners, the same team who first launched “C as in Charlie,” also located in the Lower East Side. I used to go there all the time and can vouch for how great the food is. I should go back again soon to properly take photos and write a review.
When you think of a gisa sikdang, you picture an old-school roadside eatery in Korea. These spots used to be common, a cozy place for drivers to stop for a quick, affordable, hearty meal before getting back to work. Think of it as a nostalgic roadside diner. Kisa has carefully recreated that exact vibe through its interior and decor. There’s a retro coffee machine (which the owner told me they imported all the way from Korea), old-school fans, and even a small CRT TV—all of it crafted with intention.
Side Dishes from Korean Food Culture
In Korea, these gisa sikdang restaurants typically serve “baekban.” The concept is simple: a bowl of steamed white rice, accompanied by a variety of banchan (side dishes) and a main dish—all served as a set.
For those unfamiliar with Korean dining culture, you might wonder:
“If all these side dishes come with the meal, won’t it be really expensive?”
Absolutely not. It’s just one of the many joys that come included with your main dish.
Korean food culture might seem unique, but the pricing is generally not higher than your average restaurant. So don’t worry about the cost—just enjoy the food! I remember taking an American friend to a Korean BBQ place once, and they were so overwhelmed by all the free side dishes that they said to the server:
“We didn’t order all of this…”
I’d probably react the same way if I didn’t grow up with Korean food culture.
Of course, since this is New York, the price may feel higher to those who often visited gisa sikdang back in Korea. But we can’t compare NYC prices to Korea, can we? In any regular NYC restaurant, you’d have to pay extra for these side dishes. So in that sense, it’s still a great deal.
What We Ordered
The menu here is simple: choose one of four main dishes and it comes with side dishes. The four options are:
- Bulgogi
- Spicy Pork
- Stir-fried Squid
- Bibimbap
Each main dish is $32.
Here’s what we ordered:
Spicy Pork
Jeyuk bokkeum (spicy pork stir-fry) is one of the ultimate comfort foods for many Korean guys. It’s hard to go wrong with it. Kisa’s version felt intentionally crafted to suit different palates beyond just Korean diners. Spicy pork and white rice? A guaranteed win.
We also have a simple spicy pork recipe on our recipe article—if you’re not near NYC, try it at home!
Stir-fried Squid
Some restaurants struggle with this dish—the squid can have a strong fishy smell if not done right. But not here. The flavor was clean and slightly sweet, clearly made with care. I love spicy pork so much that I instinctively ordered it, but after tasting my friend’s stir-fried squid, I regretted not ordering it myself. It was that good.
These dishes also paired perfectly with makgeolli (Korean rice wine)!
How Was It?
Delicious, of course. Any Korean would recognize these familiar flavors. But what made Kisa special was the emotional connection—the vintage decor, the retro details, and that iconic old-school coffee machine. Seeing it here in New York almost brought tears to my eyes.
Before we move to final thoughts, let me finish my 25 cents coffee from Kisa!
Final Thoughts: Should You Go?
Absolutely. At least once.
It’s a popular spot that has already been featured in TV shows, magazines, online articles, and interviews. The lines used to be super long and they didn’t take reservations, but now it seems they’re starting to accept limited reservations. It might not be the easiest place to get into regularly, but it’s absolutely worth a visit.